This Rough Country 4-inch lift kit with shocks is for those of you that have a 1997 to 2002
TJ, that are looking for a 4-inch lift kit that will allow you to run a set of 33-inch
tires on your TJ.
If you are planning on running a larger 35-inch tire, you're probably going to wanna step
up to a 6-inch lift that will give you plenty of room for articulation and for those big
tires.
And if you wanna step down to a 31-inch tire, you can probably get away with a 2.5-inch
lift kit, who again, 4-inch lift kits on a TJ are really ideal for a 33-inch tire.
The reason that this is a '97 to 2002 lift kit and not the full range of the TJ is because
of these transfer case drop brackets here.
It did change a little bit from 2002 to 2003.
So make sure you get the proper lift kit for your year Jeep.
Now, Rough Country makes a good lift kit.
A fairly complete lift kit, but a lift kit that is a little bit less expensive than some
of the others out there, and that makes this a very good starter kit.
This is a way that you can get those 33s on your jeep, drive down the road, drive off-road,
and then slowly add things, modify things, and change things, and upgrade things as you
find necessary for your Jeep to work exactly how you want it to.
So for a 4-inch lift kit, that includes lower control arm shock springs and all of the brackets
that you need to get installed.
This is going to be less expensive than some of the other options out there.
So starting with the construction of this lift kit, it's going to include all of the
parts you see here and some that it couldn't even fit on the table.
Starting here, you have your springs, and this is what's going to provide those four
inches of lift.
So, from Rough Country, you're going to get both front and rear springs, no spacers, all
of the lift is going to come from your springs.
Down here, of course, you have a new longer set of shocks that will accommodate that new,
taller ride height.
These are going to be the N3 shocks from Rough Country.
And as you can see by the banding on here, these are going to be a nitrogen charged shocks.
So when you're looking at shocks, really, you have two different camps, hydraulic and
nitrogen.
The nitrogen charge in a shock like this is there to eliminate any cavitation or foaming
that can happen inside of the shock fluid, which can eventually cause some shock fade.
In general, a Nitro shock will ride a little bit stiffer than a hydraulic shock, but really,
the ride quality is going to come down to the valving, and if there is one area that
you can upgrade this lift kit, get a little bit more of a comfortable ride that is going
to be in the shocks.
Again, these are gonna be the proper length for your new ride height, so they're absolutely
going to work for you right out of the box.
But if you find that the ride is a little bit harsh, you can always swap those out for
a different set of shocks.
Over here, you have four lower control arms.
This is going to be for both the front and the rear of your Jeep.
So as you lift your Jeep, you actually are going to roll the pinion and upfront role
the caster as well.
So by having a longer set of lower control arms, you're able to correct that geometry
a little bit that's going to eliminate a little bit of the flighty feel from the caster and
also to help out your pinion angles, which will eliminate any sort of driveline vibration.
Another way that this lift kit eliminates any of those driveline vibes is by including
a transfer case drop bracket.
And we talked a little bit about that just a second ago.
So when you hit the 4-inch lift mark on a TJ that is not a Rubicon, you are going to
have to do something with that transfer case, either lowering it down or shortening it in
order to run a longer drive shaft.
Now, this is going to be the cheaper and easier way to go about eliminating any of those driveline
vibrations.
Now, you are adding lift and then adding something that is lowering down the belly of the jeep,
so if you do a lot of off-roading, especially on the rocks, you may want to upgrade this
down the line as well, going with that slip yoke eliminator, and CB drive shaft, but keeping
with the theme of this lift kit, they're able to keep costs down a little bit by going with
this and you can always upgrade it down the line if you choose to.
You're going to get a new longer set of both front and rear sway bar and links, again,
longer for that new, taller ride height.
Here, you have a rear track bar bracket that's going to help get your track bar angles back
in line a little bit and help your role center out just a little bit as well.
Again, the kit doesn't include any adjustable track bars, but that is something you could
add down the line.
And the final bracket that I have on the table here is this one, and that's going to go ahead
and relocate some of your transfer case linkage.
So if you had this drop bracket in place, but you don't have this linkage bracket in
place, you're not going to be able to shift very smoothly from two-wheel drive into four-wheel
drive and back again, so that's why that one is included.
So as you can see, you do get a lot of components here, especially for the price of this lift
kit.
It's gonna get you're rolling down the road and a lot of options to upgrade this kit down
the line.
And now, I'll have a member of our install team to show you how to get this installed
on your TJ.
First things first, we're gonna raise the vehicle up.
We're gonna begin by removing the wheels and tires.
The stock Lug nuts are gonna be a 19-millimeter.
First step of the disassembly, we're gonna remove the front sway bar links.
You're gonna need a T55 Torx Bit and an 18-millimeter socket or wrench.
Now, that we have the bottom undone, we're gonna remove these.
We're gonna save this hardware for reuse later on.
Next, we're gonna rotate this bar down.
Use a 15-millimeter socket to remove this nut.
Once you have that out, we're gonna take a hammer.
We're gonna smack the side of the sway bar, crack this free.
Same thing with the other side, use a 15-millimeter.
Remove the nut.
Take a hammer, smack it until it comes out.
Next step, we're gonna support the axle with jack stands.
Now that we have the axle supported, we're gonna remove the track bar bolt using a 15-millimeter
socket.
Next step, we're gonna remove the shocks.
You're gonna need a half inch wrench and a half inch socket.
We're gonna do the same thing for the other side, half-inch wrench up top, half-inch socket
down the bottom.
Pull those out.
We're gonna save the hardware for later.
Now, we're gonna remove our pull jacks, lowering the axle down and then we're gonna work on
getting the top of the shocks off.
This will also free up the spring so we can remove them.
It's also a good idea at this point in time to remove your axle vent tube.
You can just pry that off, and that'll give us a little more room when we're lowering
the axle down.
Next up, with the axle lowered, we're gonna remove the factory springs.
The next step, we're going to switch out the factory lower control arms for the new Rough
Country control arms.
You're gonna mark where the stock cam location is, and then we'll proceed taking that out.
We'll begin by marking where the stock cam location is.
That way when we put the new control arms in, we have a good starting point.
You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and a wrench.
I'm gonna crack these loose.
The other side.
Now, we're gonna place our Jack stands underneath the axle.
So now that we have the axle supported, we're gonna go ahead and remove the lower control
arms completely.
We're gonna do one side at a time, that way our axle doesn't roll away from us.
If the bolt doesn't wanna come out, you can place the nut back on it, so you don't mess
up the threads, smack it out with a hammer.
So now that we have this stock control arm out, we're gonna replace it with the Rough
Country control arm.
We're gonna insert the top, use the factory bolt, secure it with the nut, now we'll go
ahead and replace our cam bolt down here.
We're using the factory hardware, you're gonna go ahead and secure that one.
We're gonna align our cam marks up, and then we're gonna do the same thing to the other
side.
Same thing, back the control arm up.
We use this factory hardware, we'll get that secured.
We're gonna use our cam bolt for the front.
Now that both sides are loose, we can roll the axle forward since these are a little
longer than stock, and that way we can get our cam bolts back in.
We're gonna place our washer and our nut, and now we wanna tighten this up.
We'll just keep those snug for now because we still wanna lower it down and get our springs
in.
So now, we're ready to install the springs and shocks.
We're gonna remove the jack stands and then we're gonna lower the vehicle down.
So we're gonna remove this bolt holding this brake line here to give us a little extra
slack.
And you're gonna need a T 40 Torx bit for that.
So now, we're ready to install the spring.
We're gonna go ahead, get this up and over the bump stop, and get it situated.
Once we have it where we want it, we'll use our pry bar to get the spring in there.
So this spring does have a seat down in here, and you wanna make sure that the bottom lines
up and bottoms out with that, just like that.
You're gonna do the same thing for the other side.
I'm gonna get the spring in there, get it lined up with our pry bar.
I want to get this spring in there.
And you wanna spin it so that it seats.
So now, we're gonna put our jack stands back underneath.
So now, we're ready to install the shocks.
We wanna place a washer in the bushing, we're gonna go up through the hole and doing the
bushing, and then a washer, and then the supplied nut.
And that's a 14-millimeter nut, so we're gonna tighten that up, and then we'll get the bottom
in.
For the bottom, we're gonna re-use our stock hardware.
Same thing with the opposite side.
We're gonna do a washer, bushing, another bushing, a washer, and then the supplied nut.
Tighten it up with a 14-millimeter.
We're gonna use that half inch wrench and a half inch socket again.
So now we're ready to install the new sway bar link brackets.
Using the provided hardware, we're gonna put the washer on the bolt, insert that through
the bracket, screw the net on, and then we'll tighten that up snug.
Same thing for the other side.
Bolt, washer, up through the bracket, and then install the nut.
These are also slotted, so you have some side to side movement.
We'll adjust that later on once we get the links in.
For now, we're just gonna get those snug, assemble the links, and install those.
So now, we're ready to assemble the sway bar links.
We need to press these sleeves into here.
So we're gonna do that with a vice.
It's a good idea to spray the inside with WD-40 or some sort of lubricant because it
will make the sleeves slide in a little better.
And we're gonna put it in our vice.
I'm going to just wiggle it back and forth, make sure it doesn't get caught.
You should do the same thing with the other side.
And then the same thing, we're gonna press it through, wiggle it, make sure it doesn't
get stuck.
All right.
Now we're ready to install the sway bar link.
We want the band to face towards the frame.
Using the larger bolts, we're gonna place a washer on there and then install in that.
You wanna make sure that you face the bolt this way so that it doesn't contact the frame.
We're gonna use factory hardware for the bottom so I'll re-install that, our washer, and then
the nut.
Now that we got that in, we'll go and do the other side, and then we'll tighten everything
up.
Same thing, offsite goes towards the frame, place a washer on the bolt.
We're gonna install our nut.
Place a 19 on this side, an 18 on this side.
We'll go ahead and tighten this up.
For the bottom, we're gonna use a T55 Torx and an 18-millimeter wrench.
And now, we're twist these tight and we're gonna tighten this one up.
And that's gonna to be a 14-millimeter on the top and bottom.
The next step of this installation, we're gonna get ready to install the track bar.
For the factory track bar, we have to drill a new hole.
So we're gonna measure over three-quarters of an inch from the center of this hole, and
then we're gonna make our mark, and then we'll draw a new hole there.
So using a 7/16 drillbit, we're gonna drill a new hole.
Last but not least, we're gonna re-install the deafen tube.
Make sure that you have extra slack.
And then once we get the vehicle on the ground, we'll get the track bar in.
Now that we've completed the front install, we're ready to disassemble the rear.
We're gonna begin by placing jack stands underneath the axle.
Compress the springs a little bit, and then we're gonna remove the track bar.
Begin by removing this bolt from the track bar.
You're gonna need a 15 for this side, and then an 18 for the other.
Next up, we're gonna remove the shocks.
We're gonna need a 15 and an 18.
We're gonna do the same thing for the other side.
We're gonna retain this factory hardware for reuse.
Now that we have the shocks disconnected, we're gonna lower the axle, pull the springs
out, take care of some other loose ends.
Pull these springs out.
We're gonna remove the axle vent tube, and we'll re-route that to give us a little more
length.
Now, we're gonna remove the factory sway bar links.
You're gonna need an 18-millimeter for the top.
And for the bottom, you're gonna need an 18 and a 15 for the inside.
Same thing for the other side, an 18 and 15 for the bottom.
So the next step, we're gonna remove the bolt out of the track bar from the axle.
You're gonna need a T55 Torx.
We're gonna save this bolt as we're gonna re-use it later on.
Now we're gonna pull the factory track bar out, set that aside, and then we're gonna
take this plastic cover off.
Next step, using a 13-millimeter socket and a long extension, we're gonna remove the two
bolts out of the top of the shock.
Next, we're gonna remove the OE control arms and replace them with the new Rough Country
ones.
We'll use a 21-millimeter on both sides.
And we're gonna install our new control arm.
We're using the factory hardware.
Now, that we're able to roll the axle, we can install the new control arms and align
those bad boys up.
Same thing for the other side, I'm gonna start with the top.
Insert our OEM bolt, and then we're gonna twist our axle.
We'll reinstall the lower control arm.
And now that we have them all in, we're just gonna tighten them up, just to get them snug.
Next step, we're gonna install the new Rough Country track bar relocation bracket into
the axle.
Using the supplied hardware, we're gonna insert a sleeve, use the provided bolt and the nut
to give us on the backside.
Once we have that on, we're gonna take a 5/16 drill bit, we're gonna enlarge this hole down
here, and then we're gonna do the same for the top hole.
Next, using the supplied hardware, we're gonna insert a bolt with a washer on it, and we'll
place our lock washer.
This is where I use a magnet.
We're gonna use a half inch wrench on the inside and a half inch socket on the outside.
I'm gonna go ahead and tighten that up.
Same thing, we're, gonna tighten this up using a half inch.
And since you can't really get a wrench in there, I like to just stick a screwdriver
in there, pry against the nut.
It holds it in place for the most part.
Next step, we're gonna install the springs and shocks.
We're gonna place this spring up into its seat.
Same thing for the other side, we're gonna go ahead and install it over the top bump
stop.
Use our pry bar.
Go ahead, kick in partially, lift up a little bit more, slide it over the spring seat.
So now, we're ready to install the top of the shocks.
You're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket on a long extension.
I like to get the outer bolt started, then we can put our shock up and slide it on, and
then we'll get the other one in and tighten those up.
Just makes it a little easier because the outer one is in a tight spot.
Same thing goes for the other side.
Get that outside bolt started.
Now, before we raise the axle up, we're gonna install this bolt in the track bar.
That way, we can get an impact socket on there.
So we need to fish that up through, and we're gonna use the factory bolt that we removed.
Wiggle that bad boy into place.
We'll install our tab knot, and then we'll tighten that up.
We're gonna need a T55 Torx.
So now, that we've got our track bar bolt in, we're ready to raise the axle up.
That's gonna be our next step.
Then we'll get the bottom of these shocks in.
We wanna make sure that the Jeep doesn't come up off the lift, and we're compressing the
springs.
Now, we're ready to install the lower section of the shock.
We're gonna reuse the factory hardware for this.
We may have to spread these tabs somewhat to get the shocks and the new bushings to
fit in there.
We're gonna use a 15-millimeter on this side and an 18 on the other side.
Same thing with the other side, set our shock in.
We're gonna use our factory hardware.
And we're gonna tighten it up using our 18 and our 15.
Now that we have our shocks installed, we can remove our Jack stands.
So next thing, to add a little more length to this differential two breather, we're gonna
pull that back out through here.
I'm gonna go ahead and reattach that on there.
And then we'll add a zip tie here to keep it up and out of the way.
Let me go ahead and tie it to a zip tie around all these lines here, and trim that, and cut
that excess off.
In this step, we're gonna assemble the rear sway bar links.
Rough Country provides you with links, however their sleeves that need pressed in.
So we're gonna take our WD-40, add a little lubrication, and we'll insert those, and we're
gonna press them in with a vice.
So we're gonna press them in, wiggle them until they're fully seated.
Do the same thing with the other side.
Press them in, make sure they don't get stuck, same thing with the other link.
So now we're ready to install the rear sway bar links.
Rough Country provides new hardware for the top.
We're gonna use the factory tab nut, but we're not gonna use the bolt.
We're gonna use a new bolt with a washer on.
We're gonna go ahead and install that.
We'll get the rear installed.
We're gonna place a washer on our bolt.
Install the bolts through here, through the sway bar, another washer, and then a nut.
So you want a washer on each side of the bushing.
We're gonna do the same thing for the other side.
Bolt, washer, and we're gonna use the factory tab knot.
Same thing for the bottom.
A bolt, a washer.
We're gonna place another washer on the inside through the sway bar, and then we'll install
the nut.
We're gonna tighten everything using a 17-millimeter.
We're gonna use 17 for the bottom, and we'll do the same thing for the other side.
So now we're gonna go around and tighten the control arms.
You're gonna need a 21 socket and a 21 wrench.
Now, we're ready to install the transfer case dropped kit provided by Rough Country.
First step, we're gonna access the driver's side of the vehicle.
We're gonna pull the carpet up so that we can access the four bolts that hold the bracket.
Next, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter and remove these four bolts.
So now that we've removed the four bolts from the interior, we're gonna go ahead and pull
this bracket off.
So then just pull down on it, slide it off of the pin, and now we're going to attach
a drop bracket to this.
So first off, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter to remove these.
We're gonna pull all that out, set that aside for now.
And we're gonna take our drop bracket.
We're gonna re-use the factory bolts.
Then we're gonna take that, insert that in there, add that plate back on there, and then
we're gonna use the new hardware to re-install that.
And the new hardware is an 11-millimeter.
So we're gonna use an 11-millimeter wrench, socket.
So now we're ready to install the spacers for the transfer case drop.
We're gonna support it with the Jack stand where I remove one side, loosen the other
side, we'll stick a spacer in this side, and then we'll get started on the other side.
We're gonna need a 3/4 inch socket to remove these bolts.
So now we're gonna lower this down and see if the drop's enough that we can get that
spacer in there.
So now that we have the drop spacers, we're gonna go ahead and plug the ends.
Now, Rough Country gives you longer bolts.
They're the same size, 3/4-inch.
So we're gonna go ahead and install our spacer, insert our bolts.
We're gonna use our 3/4 inch.
I'll go ahead and tighten this up.
Tighten this back up.
So now we're gonna do the same thing with the other side.
We're gonna support the transfer case skid plate with a Jack, and then we'll pull these
three bolts out.
We're gonna get those ends in.
So now we're gonna lower this down.
We'll install our spacer.
Now that we have these in, we're gonna go ahead, use a 3/4, and we'll tighten these
up, and then we'll finish tightening on the other side, and we'll be all good to go.
When doing the transfer case dropped along with the drop bracket, we're gonna need to
adjust the four-wheel drive linkage.
Now the four-wheel drive linkage, you're gonna need to loosen this 13-millimeter here, and
you're going to slide this rod forward.
That's gonna drop the handle back down.
And then once we get that properly adjusted, we're gonna run it through all the gears and
make sure that everything's okay.
So we have that adjusted.
We're gonna go ahead and tighten this back up and then we'll reinstall the transfer piece
bracket assembly.
So now we're ready to install the bracket.
We're gonna go ahead, and you wanna slide that bottom section on, make sure you get
the pin in.
And then once we have it in place, we'll go inside, may take two people, and we'll get
those 10-millimeter bolts back in.
You're gonna want someone underneath holding the bracket up for you.
Now that we're almost finished with our install, the last step is to install the track bars.
The best way to do this, we're gonna put the wheels back on the vehicle, and have the weight
of the vehicle on the ground to help us get the last bolt in.
We're gonna use a 19-millimeter to tighten up the lug nut.
Now we're gonna lower the vehicle to the ground.
So now that we have the Jeep lowered, looks like the track bar lines up with the hole.
I'm gonna insert that bolt back through there, nut back on, and then we'll tighten it up
using a 15 socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.
Brace yourselves because this may take a while.
So the best way to install this front track bar bolt and to get this to line up is to
have someone turn the steering wheel.
All right.
So now that we have that together, we'll go ahead and tighten that up and that finishes
up.
So this kit's gonna run you just shy of $600 in that, it's going to be pretty inexpensive
for all of the components that you're getting here.
As I mentioned, Rough Country is known for doing that, putting together a complete lift
kit that's also less expensive than some of the other options out there, and this is definitely
going to get you rolling down the road, but if you choose to upgrade it down the line,
it gives you a lot of opportunity to do that as well.
So for a starter lift kit, I think this one is very fairly priced.
So if you are looking for an inexpensive starter lift kit to get you rolling on a set of 33-inch
tires, I definitely recommend taking a look at this kit from Rough Country and you can
find it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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