Today, we're gonna be looking at the Vortech V-3 Si complete supercharger system in black
for the 2015 through 2017 GT Mustang.
This is a kit that you're gonna wanna check out if you're looking for a centrifugal supercharger
in black that comes as a complete kit, which is gonna include an air-to-air intercooler
and an SCT SF4 programmer.
Vortech advertises 630 horsepower and 483 foot-pounds of torque to the crank with seven
and a half to eight and a half PSI at the factory redline with this complete kit.
You will need to perform some modifications to get this on the car and there's a few coolant
system modifications we need to make, which we will cover in a bit.
This is a self-lubricating supercharger, and that means you won't need to tap into the
engine oil, which some people try to avoid.
This kit is great for someone looking to boost their coyote but wants to still be able to
drive it like a stock car.
The install is going to be a three out of three on the difficulty meter, and you can
expect to spend a day or two in the garage getting this installed.
Before we get into too much detail about a centrifugal supercharger and what's in this
exact kit, I'll say, right away that we offer this kit in two different forms.
You can pick this up as a complete kit, which is this kit here, or you can opt for the tuner
kit.
The tuner kit does not come with everything that the complete kit comes with, but the
tuner kit leaves you room to run more boost and ultimately end up with more horsepower.
The tuner kit comes with a supercharger, air inlet system, and all of the required hardware
needed to install the kit.
It does not include any fuel management components on your fuel injectors, the adapter harnesses,
fuel pump, or a new calibration.
You would need to pick out your fuel system items yourself and schedule a custom dyno
tune.
The plus side of this is that you can go for a higher horsepower build.
The complete kit on the other hand, it comes with a high flow fuel pump, fuel injectors,
fuel rail spacers, a fuel management unit, high flow bypass valve, a high flow air filter,
and a programmer with a Vortech custom calibration on it.
The complete kit is nice because it gives you everything that you'll need in one purchase
to install the kit and get going.
With that aside, and let's look at this kit and why you might wanna go with this centrifugal
blower setup.
In the world of superchargers, you have two options.
You can go with the root-style blower or a centrifugal supercharger.
They are two very different styles of forced induction.
This kit includes a centrifugal supercharger, which is a compressor because it compresses
the air.
A root-style blower on the other hand doesn't do this.
Simply speaking, it's an air mover not a compressor.
You're gonna get a different power curve with a root-style versus centrifugal.
A root-style tends to make more boosts and lower RPMs than centrifugals do, but centrifugals
are more efficient with higher boost numbers and don't battle heat soak like a root-style
blower does.
So just know that before you make your decision on what's right for you and your build.
There are pros and cons to each type of setup.
Moving on to this kit that we have here, one of the things I like the most about this kit
is that it's a complete kit.
You order this, and you'll have almost everything you need to complete the install.
I don't have it all out on the table here, but I'll go over everything with you.
The only things that you'll be missing are the normal outside items, like your spark
plugs and coolant.
You will be draining the coolant so you are going to need replacement.
And of course, you do need a new set of spark plugs.
That stuff aside, the kits gonna come with a head unit which is the V3 Si black supercharger,
the air-to-air intercooler, and SCT programmer with a Vortech custom tuned for 91 octane
or of course, you can go get a custom tune started easily, a 98-millimeter mass airflow
housing, high flow replacement fuel injectors, and fuel rail spacers, and air inlet assembly,
which is gonna give you a can and air filter too.
You'll also get silicone sleeves and reducers, stainless steel clamps, PCV and breather hose
provisions.
That stuff aside, this kits gonna come with a head unit, which is the V3 Si black supercharger,
the air-to-air intercooler, and SCT programmer with the Vortech custom tune from 91 octane,
or so you can get your custom tune started easily, a 98-millimeter MAF housing, high
flow replacement fuel injectors and fuel rail spacers, the air inlet assembly which is gonna
include a can and air filter.
And you'll also get silicone sleeves and reducers, stainless steel clamps, and PCV and breather
hose provisions.
Other than that, you're also looking at a replacement cooling pipe and hose assemblies,
a coolant reservoir and a mounting system, and all of the hardware, which is a multiple
position idler location for a wide range of belt and pulley fits.
You'll also get your discharge components, which includes a high flow intercooler, manual
bent 3 and 3.5-inch aluminum charge tubes, stainless steel clamps, silicone sleeves,
your mass airflow configured for a blow through use, and the Maxflow Race Bypass Valve, which
you'll need since this kit runs seven and a half to eight and a half PSI.
This is a dual plate system, so you'll also get all of your pulleys and bracketry that
you'll need to that.
So needless to say, the complete kit gives you all that you'll need to get you to that
advertised horsepower number.
If we look at some of the main components in more detail, we're looking at the V3 Si
head unit here.
Vortech makes a V1, V2, and V3, as well as a few other options like the V3 Si unit, which
is a unit that comes in this kit.
This is Vortech's most popular supercharger and a big upside to this unit is that it has
self-contained lubrication system.
It comes with an attached oil drain extension, so you don't have to remove the unit to service
it.
This is a quieter head unit.
Sometimes you hear louder centrifugal superchargers, but this one is quiet because it has the helical
cut gears on it.
It's capable of a max of 26 PSI, and it has a 78% efficiency, 78% efficiency means less
heat is made, and so there's more net power and better durability.
And this head unit as well as the kit overall does weigh less than a lot of other competitors.
Looking at the intercooler and the piping, the piping is manual bent three and three
and a half-inch aluminum piping.
The intercooler has a 24 by 13 by 3.5-inch cord, and this thing sits nicely in your front
bumper, and it's gonna be effective at keeping your air temps down.
When it comes to price, you can expect to spend slightly over $6,500 for this kit.
I'll start off by saying that no supercharger kit is gonna be cheap, but you're gonna be
paying for forced induction.
But this is a complete kit, and you'll get everything you need for the install.
If you didn't necessarily need all of the items that come in this kit and you need more
flexibility with a kit, you can always check out the tuner kit and that's a little bit
less expensive.
The tuner kit costs just over $5,200 and it'll leave some things up for you to grab though.
But some people need or want that flexibility with their build.
Install-wise, this is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter
and you can plan on spending a day or two in the garage getting this installed.
I wouldn't say this is for the first-time wrencher, but more for someone that has some
experience.
You're gonna need your toolbox to get this done, and of course, a lift would make things
easier but you can do the job with a jack and jack stands.
First step is gonna be to remove the plastic fasteners.
Next step is to remove this 6/8-millimeter bolts out of the top of this bumper.
Next step is to peel this weatherstripping back and to take out this 5.5-millimeter screw.
And you're gonna wanna save all this hardware for reassembly.
I'm gonna start by removing these push pins here, so we can gain access to the bolts that
hold the bumper to the fender.
I'm gonna go ahead and do the same thing on the other side and remove those pins.
For these in the wheel well, you just push the center in, which disengages them.
And then you just need to get under them and pry them out.
So I'm gonna take these last clips out here underneath to remove this splash shield.
This 7-millimeter socket, you're gonna wanna take all these screws out so you can get this
guard out of the way.
Might be a little faster if you use airpower or an electric tool since there are a lot
of them.
Next, we're gonna remove this 7-millimeter screw from the each side to release the bumper
from the fender.
You're gonna have to pull the fender liner and get it out of the way.
It's tucked in a little bit.
And then you can get your ratchet up in there and remove that bolt.
Next, you're gonna wanna unplug the fog lights.
That last one, squeeze the little tab.
Next, we're gonna lower the car down so we can pull the front bumper off.
You're gonna pull off the corner of the bumper, get that disconnected.
Do that on both sides.
And once you've done that, you're just gonna wanna pull the whole bumper off.
You're gonna have to lift it up because there's pins on the top.
Once you get it up and off over the pins, it should come right off for you.
Next, you're gonna free up the wiring harness by pulling these gray clips out of the bumper
support.
So we're just gonna pry on those.
You can stick a screwdriver down in there, or if you have a tool like this, you can use
that.
Just get that disconnected from there.
And then next, you're going to actually separate these gray clips from the harness.
Next, we're gonna unplug the ambient air temperature sensor, and then we're gonna remove that to
reuse later on.
Next, we're gonna take the radiator shrouds off both sides, and those will be trimmed
and reinstalled at a later step.
We're gonna do the same thing to the other side, pull these push pins out and then we
wanna take this shroud out as well.
So you're gonna use a 15-millimeter.
We're gonna take this strut tower brace off.
After the strut tower brace is removed, we're gonna pull off the engine cover.
You can just lift that up and it'll just pop off.
After the engine cover's removed, we're gonna take off the intake and use a flathead to
take off the band clamp.
Next, we're going to disconnect the sound tune.
Next is going to be to unscrew the reservoir cap, and we're going to raise the vehicle
up, and we're going to pull out the drain plug and let it drain.
Now, we're gonna put the car up and we're gonna pull the drain plug out of the bottom
of the radiator.
Just unscrew this plug here and your fluid will start to drain out.
You wanna drain it enough so that there's not going to be any fluid in the top radiator
hose.
So we're gonna put the cap back on.
We're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket, pull these bolts out and you can remove the overflow
tank.
Might have to crack the line loose, a lot of times they're stuck.
Just grab it with your vice grips and spin it a little bit, and then it should come free.
And we're gonna remove this completely because this is not gonna be reused.
We're just gonna remove the airbox to make room for the supercharger install.
I'm gonna have to release the spring clip that retains the upper radiator hose at the
quick-connect fitting.
And once I've done that, I can just slide the upper radiator hose off of the thermostat
housing and then disconnect it from the radiator.
To disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator, just use a pair of pliers to
squeeze the hose clamp and move it out of the way, slide the hose back.
With a 15-millimeter wrench or a 15-mil socket on a ratchet, release the belt tensioner by
turning the tensioner pulley counterclockwise.
Next is to remove the MAF sensor from the intake tube, on a stock intake, it would be
T20 Torx bit socket.
On this JLT intake, it's simply a Phillips head.
Remove the intake tube from the throttle body and unplug the throttle position sensor by
moving the red tab back and pushing it down to release it with an 8-millimeter socket
and ratchet, remove the four bolts from the throttle body.
Make sure the throttle body gasket stays in place in the intake manifold.
Place a rag over the opening for the intake manifold so no foreign debris can get inside.
All right, with a clip removal tool, unhook the wire harness from these retaining points
on the front of the engine cover.
Be careful when removing the plastic retaining clip from the threaded hole in the front of
the engine as the threaded hole is going to be used in a later step.
If any of the plastic breaks off inside, carefully extract it.
With the clips removed, reroute the harness higher up on the valve cover.
To maintain proper valve cover to supercharger clearance, remove an eighth-inch from the
front engine tab.
With a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet, maybe a small extension, remove the three front
engine cover bolts.
Place a small amount of blue thread locker onto the end of the studs that are gonna be
going into the engine and the two previously removed fastener holes.
Screw the studs into the fastener holes by hand.
So do not bottom these out into the engine cover because you will not have enough space
off of the end of the spacer to mount the pulley assembly.
All right, install the lower spacer onto the lower stud.
Once again, leaving three and three quarters of an inch from the face of the spacer to
the end of the stud.
I need to back this one out a half of an inch.
So I am installing the pulley bracket, making sure that the 2 200 millimeter studs are going
through both the backing plate and the spacers inside.
I use two smaller bolts to keep them lined up while I install the rest.
Now, I can install the supplied hardware but I wanna make sure to leave everything loose
to allow for movement to make all the adjustments necessary.
So I reinstalled this pulley so that I would not lose its placement when I was installing
a bracket.
But in order to get to the bolt down here, I need it out of my way so I'll just remove
it.
Now, I'm gonna take one of the previously removed spacers and install it back behind
the bracket, and start the bolt into the removed fastener hole.
Using a 5-millimeter Allen key, I'm gonna thread the bolt into the removed fastener
hole.
So leaving things loose to allow for any adjustment.
So keeping in mind the routing of the belt, I'm gonna install the final spacer and bolt
into the previously removed fastener hole, once again keeping everything loose and make
any adjustments I need to.
I'm gonna start with the 5-millimeter headed socket head cap screw, tighten that one up
first so that I can reinstall my uppermost pulley, slide the upper pulley back into place.
I'm gonna have to loosen up some of the other bolts to allow for clearance.
Right now, I'm gonna start threading the belt through the pulley system using my magical
mechanic powers.
All right, so the pulley belt is routed now.
And this upper loop here is where the supercharger is going to be located.
So we're gonna take a clamp, and we're gonna keep that there so our pulley belt can't move
anywhere.
All right, now I can start tightening up all of my installed hardware, working back and
forth, trying to make sure that nothing is binding up.
I'm gonna be using a 13-millimeter for some hardware and a 9/16ths for others.
I'm trying to leave it a little bit loose so I have wiggle room to get the harder-to-reach
bolts that are in the back.
I'm using a s-shaped wrench to get to the hard-to-reach bolts on the back of the supercharger,
and tightening them a little bit at a time to make sure not to damage anything using
a 15-millimeter socket on a ratchet for a 15-millimeter wrench if you have one.
Move the tensioner pulley counterclockwise.
In order to fit the throttle body with its new positioning and the throttle body spacer,
this coolant line here has to be removed.
You take that off by removing the spring clip down here on the bottom and then moving the
hose clamp back and out of the way, wiggle and pull, line up the throttle body spacer
with the OEM throttle body using the provided gasket, and the four bolts provided, and install
the throttle body spacer and throttle body onto the intake manifold.
Once you've got all four bolts started, you can tighten them down working in an X pattern.
Once the throttle body has been reinstalled, you can plug in the throttle position sensor.
All right.
So I'm gonna trim the radiator fan shroud one inch below this hole on the driver' side
and then along the crease line.
All right.
If yours is a track pack car, you're gonna have to remove the two braces on either side
of the front crash bar.
Before you can install the intercooler, we need to reinstall the modified radiator shrouds
using the factory hardware and sliding it into place.
So with the four inner bumper bolts backed out, it'll give you enough room to slide the
intercooler up into place and align the brackets with the back of the bolts.
Once you've got the bracket hanging on the back to the bolts, you can put the bolts back
in and then use the supplied washer and nuts to tighten everything down.
At this point, you can reinstall the ambient air temperature sensor into its factory location
on the bottom side of the bumper support.
Install a 3-inch silicone coupler onto the passenger side of the intercooler along with
2 number 48 clamps provided in the kit.
Feed the intercooler charge piping up through the passenger side frame rail, and connect
it to the intercooler.
You just wanna snug up the clamps at this time.
You don't wanna tighten them too much so that you can adjust things later.
Slide the bump sleeve over the previously installed piece of intercooler piping with
a number 48 clamp.
So now, we're going to remove the passenger side PCV hose.
There's a little clip in here.
You wanna get in there and press it to the side and up which will release it, and then
you can wiggle it off.
So we have to cut this tube off of the ends.
And you can use a razor blade, pretty much anything you can get your hands on to kind
of make it easier for you, and then that'll just pop off.
You wanna make sure you don't damage the valve or any of these seals on there.
And we're just gonna peel that the rest of the way off.
And then we'll do that to the other side as well.
If you have something sharp, it cuts pretty easily.
It shouldn't be too big of an issue.
All right, we're gonna start by taking the tape measure, locate the 5/8ths inch hose.
I wanna cut three sections, two inches long.
That's one.
Now, we take the 3/8ths inch hose.
We're gonna cut a two and a half-inch section.
Now, you're ready to assemble the new PCV hose.
So you're gonna need 3 25.6 clamps, 2 17 clamps, and then 1 28.6 clamp.
And that's gonna be for the PCV valve.
Let me start by taking that one and pressing it on there.
After you press that section on, you can go ahead and slide 1 of the 25.6 band clamps
on there.
And don't clamp that yet, we're gonna keep that for now.
Now, we're gonna press another section on as well.
It's a very tight fit so you need to give it some force.
We wanna try not to break the plastic elbow as well, just slide another clamp on there,
same thing, 25.6.
And we're gonna connect this piece into there and slide one more clamp on.
I'm gonna press this brass valve in there.
Slide a clamp on, you press your 3/8ths section on there, which, once again, is a very tight
fit.
Slide one more clamp on.
I'm gonna slide this valve in there, 3A seems to go together a little bit easier.
But the last one, they want you to use a 28.6.
And we have to slide that onto there as well.
Again, it's not exactly easy, it's a tight fit.
So you need to force it somewhat.
So you're gonna need 2 more 25.6 clamps for each end.
And these fittings that you removed from the passenger side piece are going to fit in the
ends as so.
And then before we tighten any of the clamps, we're gonna test fit it on the vehicle to
make sure that everything is proper before we go ahead and tighten that down.
We're gonna test fit our new PCV valve setup, and we're gonna test fit that on the vehicle,
make sure that it clears the supercharger and its belt, which it does.
And then we're gonna clamp all these clamps down and finish it off.
I'm gonna take our special tool and clamp these stepless clamps down to finish it off.
I'm gonna take the sheathing.
I'm gonna fold it in half and we're just going to cut it.
I'm gonna take this sheathing and slide it over the new PCV assembly just like that.
Now, you're ready to install it.
We're gonna use a heat gun and we're going to shrink the sleeve onto the assembly.
So to fit the new inlet tube, we have to trim the coolant reservoir mount.
You can remove the whole fan shroud and cut it.
It's not exactly necessary, so we're gonna cut it while it's in the car.
So now, we're gonna need to take the top rad hose.
We're gonna measure 2 inches from the end and cut that off, and then remove this band
clamp.
Now that we have that trimmed, take the clamp off.
For the quick disconnect end, we need to cut this band clamp off and then remove the hose
from it.
So we're gonna take our cutoff wheel and try not to damage the hose.
Get it to separate.
We can pull it off, like so.
With the throttle body removed, we're gonna reinstall part of the cooling system.
Just makes it a little easier to get your clamp in there and get your clamp on.
Once we get that on all the way, we wanna connect that back in.
You'll hear that click and then it's on.
After that, make sure it's all the way back and then we can release our clamp.
And now, we can go and connect the top rad hose on.
All right, now we're gonna reinstall the throttle body.
I'm gonna put the spacer on it, line it up, and then we'll get these screws started.
So next step is to reinstall the upper radiator hose.
The end that originally had the quick-connect is going to now be flipped, and that's gonna
go on the other side.
And that allows it to pass underneath of the supercharger.
All right.
So we're gonna put the quick disconnect back on, click that on to secure it.
This radiator hose gets flipped, we wanna put our band clamp on this end, preferably
so we can tighten it.
And that is gonna slip on there.
I just wanna jam it on.
And looks like it's all the way on.
We're gonna reuse the stock clamp.
Put that back on.
Seat that onto the radiator.
So now, we're gonna relocate the electric power steering assist ground cable from this
bolt down to this one right here.
You're gonna need an 8-millimeter wrench for this.
It's gonna be a little tricky, bend it a little bit to get it better situated.
Next step is to take this bolt out.
You're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket.
This is to mount the new coolant tank.
With that bolt removed, we're going to place the new cooling reservoir tank in there, and
we're gonna put that bolt back in.
Next step is to take the 3/8ths line and we're gonna measure two inches, and then we're gonna
cut that section off.
Take the 2-inch section that you just cut, you're gonna need a number 17 stepless clamp,
and then we're gonna slide that on the step section of the new coolant tank.
So you're going to need another 17 stepless clamp.
Place that on.
You're gonna take the plastic tee, and we're gonna insert that into the end.
The next step is to take this hose here and to cut it off there, and attach a 5/16ths
coupler with a 5/16ths line to this connector here.
However, this is a 3/8ths line, and this is a 3/8ths connector.
So splicing in a 5/16ths line would not work.
What we're gonna do for this particular install is we're just gonna route this under this
harness and then connect that with a clamp for now.
All right.
So take this line, and then I want you to put it under the wiring harness.
So you're gonna have to squeeze it in between the PCV line that we just made.
And under this harness, we're gonna use a number 17 clamp for that since this is a 3/8ths
line, and we're gonna attach that onto there.
It's a bit of a stretch, but it'll work for now.
Next step is to take your 3/8ths line, put a number 17 clamp on it and install that on
there.
We're now going to route this to this line here.
We're gonna cut this off at the bend and then attach those together.
You're gonna use your 3/8ths coupler.
All right.
Now, we're gonna clamp these clamps.
So we're gonna take the 3/4 inch 90-degree elbow that they supplied, the 3/4 inch brass
coupler, we're gonna insert that in there.
And then the 3/4 inch supplied hose, we are also going to place that in there.
We're gonna use the 2 28.6 clamps, and we'll go ahead and get that attached.
You wanna set your clamp up.
Get it in a nice spot, and then pinch it to tighten it up.
And do the same thing on the other side.
And now that that's done, we're ready to attach it onto the car.
You wanna take this, route that down under there, and then this is gonna get attached
onto there.
You're going to wanna reuse the stock clamp.
So we're just gonna grab that, spring that open with some pliers, put that on the end,
and we'll get that on there and then let that clamp go.
Using another 28.6 clamp, we're gonna slide that on there, and then attach this on to
the new coolant reservoir.
And you wanna route this line so it can be zip tied to the upper radiator hose.
And we're gonna take our clamps, and we're gonna clamp that back on there.
Next, we're gonna take the zip ties.
We're gonna zip tie the coolant line to the upper radiator hose just to keep it out of
harms away.
It goes off.
Next step to finish the cooling system is to take the provided 7/64ths line and we're
gonna attach it onto this brass nipple.
And then you wanna route that down and away from the engine in case the system needs to
purge it all.
All right, the first step is gonna be to remove the protective cover for the hose assembly
from the front of the intake manifold.
It's very sticky.
All right.
Slice the black plastic tube with a razor blade at the end on the dual check valve assembly.
So remove the breather hose beneath the hard plastic hose on the dual check valve assembly.
It's not gonna get reused.
So locate the hard plastic tube that runs underneath the driver's side of the intake
manifold, and remove the soft rubber line on the end of it, just like that.
Locate the hard plastic tube that's underneath the passenger's side of the intake manifold
and slice the end of it with a razorblade to remove it from the vehicle.
All right.
Cut a 2-inch section of the rubber hose.
Okay.
So slide the cut piece of 2-inch 3/8ths hose onto the plastic tube that runs underneath
the driver side of the intake manifold with the supplied T pointed towards the passenger
side.
Next, cut a 12-inch section of hose off of the 3/8 hose that's provided in the kit.
And also cut a 2.5-inch piece of the 3/8ths hose provided in the kit.
Take the 12-inch section of 3/8the hose, the provided 3/8 check valve, going in the direction
of flow this way.
And then take the 2.5 inch piece, attach it to the other end of the 3/8ths check valve
and secure each end with a number 17 stepless clamp, just like that.
All right.
So take this assembled piece of hose that you just put together.
Slide it underneath from the passenger side over to the driver's side.
Connect it to the previously installed tee and connect the short end to the gray port
on the dual check valve.
The direction of flow should be going towards the gray port.
All right.
So attach the 3/8ths hose to the open end of the hard plastic tube that runs underneath
the passenger side of the intake manifold and route it up for the black port on the
dual check valve, and cut to length.
Attach the remaining length of the 3/8ths hose to the open port on the tee fitting previously
installed, and route it to the front of the engine where it will later be attached to
the barbed fitting on the supercharger inlet pipe.
So slide the reduced end of the bubble coupler onto the inlet of the supercharger and then
put the final piece of the passenger side intercooler piping, make the connection from
the intercooler up to the supercharger.
All right, once the connections are made, use a screwdriver to just tighten up the worn
screw clamps.
All right, with tubes A and B in place, attach the bypass valve to the flange with the gasket
and supplied hardware, making sure that the filter for the bypass valve is pointed in
towards the inner wheel well liner.
Once the bypass valve is installed, install the filter and tighten the hose clamp.
Use the supplied 3.5 to 3-inch reducing coupler, put the small end on the intercooler with
the number 48 hose clamp.
Install tube C into the large end of the coupler with a number 56 hose clamp.
Make sure that you route the pipe so that it doesn't interfere with the horn assembly
or the wire harness.
So install the 3.5-inch straight silicone coupler onto the previously installed intercooler
pipe, and secure with 2 number 56 clamps.
So install the 4-inch to 3.5-inch reducer coupling on 1 end of tube D and install the
other end of tube D into the previously installed 3.5-inch coupling on the driver's side of
the intercooler piping.
Install a number 56 clamp to the small end of the reducer coupling, and a number 64 clamp
to the large end of the reducer coupling to get ready for the next step.
So with the previously removed mass airflow sensor, locate the mass airflow housing provided
in the kit, keeping in mind the direction of flow going towards the throttle body, and
install the mass air flow into the housing using the provided hardware in the kit.
With the mass airflow installed into the mass airflow housing, position the coupler that
you previously installed on tube D. Slide the mass airflow housing into the large end.
Secure the large end with a 64 clamp and the small end with a 56 clamp.
Attach the throttle body sleeve to the throttle body with a 56 clamp, and the large end of
the throttle body sleeve to the mass airflow housing with a 64 clamp.
The customer had an aftermarket intake installed on his vehicle.
We have to go back to stock for the supercharger install.
And in order to run a stock airbox, you have to remove the snorkel from the front end.
There's a clip on the front of the snorkel, and two more clips on the back.
And you just have to pop them loose to break it free from the factory intake.
Okay, with the snorkel detached from the factory airbox, we can reinstall the lower half of
the airbox and route it around the intercooler piping.
In order to fit the top half of the stock airbox back into the vehicle with the intercooler
piping, a little bit of trimming is gonna be required right here where it gets very
close to the intercooler piping.
So I'm going to mark and cut a line along the airbox here.
All right, so I have to trim the lower half of the airbox to fit.
This tab next to the intercooler piping has to be trimmed off in order to let the airbox
attach to the top half.
All right, now that I've made all the trimmings to the airbox, you can reinstall the top half
to the bottom half.
All right, the mass airflow sensor has been relocated into this mass airflow housing,
which eliminates the need for the mass airflow housing in the upper airbox.
Vortech provides you with a block off plate and two washers to reinstall the factory screws
to hold the block off plate in.
So come to the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel feed line from the fuel rail.
Be careful because the fuel rail may still be pressurized.
It's a good idea to keep a rag close by to soak up any excessive fuel that spills out.
There we go.
So with a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet on both, pull out the 4 10-millimeter hex
nuts on top of the fuel rail.
Next, just remove the four bolts that secure the fuel rail to the manifold.
Once the four bolts are removed, you can pull the fuel rail and the injectors out.
There we go.
And let's try and keep it so that that doesn't spill fuel out.
With the factory fuel rail removed, you can pull the OEM fuel rail spacers out and replace
it with a shorter fuel rail spacer provided with the kit.
Now that the new spacers have been installed, you can reinstall the fuel rail and seat the
injectors into their factory locations.
With the fuel rail reinstalled and the injector seated, you can use the supplied hardware
to tighten down the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
Once the hardware is installed and tightened down, you can reassemble the rest of the fuel
rail system in the reverse order of removal.
And just continuing the reinstallation of all the removed components from the fuel rail
system.
All right.
Finally, reconnect the fuel line, press down on the quick release fitting.
Cut the lower vacuum hose on the dual bypass.
Insert the supplied tee fitting using the supplied 5/32nds hose and the 7/32nd to 5/32nd
adapter.
Attach this to the previously installed tee fitting.
And then using the supplied 7/32nds hose, run this hose to the bypass valve located
behind the passenger side front bumper.
Attach the other end of the 7/32nds vacuum hose to the end of the bypass valve.
Make sure not to damage the hose in the process and secure it out of the way.
All right.
So the provided three-quarter inch hose in the kit, we wanna cut a length of it to 11
inches.
Using a razorblade, cut back the insulation on the breather hose for the driver side of
the engine bay, and cut back the hose to release the barbed fitting.
Install the 90-degree breather inlet connection into the 3/4 inch hose.
Use a 25.6 clamp.
So reinstall your previously modified breather tube for the driver side valve cover.
Install all the provided hose clamps.
And finally, install your air inlet for the supercharger.
Just cut your air inlet hose to fit and attach it to the 3/8 barb on the bottom of the air
inlet pipe.
And then finally, connect your 3/4 inch breather hose to your air inlet pipe.
With the supplied cap, cap off the sound symposer tube.
Right now, I'm marking to trim the engine cover to make clearance for all of the newly
installed cooling system parts and wire harness rerouting and the pulley system for the supercharger
itself.
Okay.
Now that all the trimming has been done, and reinstall the engine cover, reinstall the
OEM coolant reservoir cap onto the supplied coolant reservoir.
Final step would be to reinstall the front bumper.
Reinstall the bottom splash shield into the front bumper, line up the screw holes.
With all of your coolant connections tight, fill the system with coolant and let the car
run to bleed out.
Ford coolant does not come premixed from the factory so you have to do a 50-50 mix of water
and coolant.
That's gonna wrap things up for the Vortech V3 Si complete supercharger system in black
for the 2015 to 2017 GT.
As always, you can check it out more online right here at americanmuscle.com.
For more infomation >> God of War 4 Review - Duration: 7:26. 
For more infomation >> Panigale 959 Review!! - Duration: 11:14. 
For more infomation >> Review Vaporizador MIGHTY de Storz & Bickel - Duration: 2:09. 
For more infomation >> Pulsar 2849 Review - JonGetsGames - Duration: 26:49. 
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét