Hey everyone, here is how you can adjust a pleating radio using some simple math. I also
have a video on how to adjust a pleating ratio, and that video focuses more on the built in
geometry, so you don't have to do any math. Anywho, to figure out how much fabric you'll
need for a given length, you'll first need to establish what I am calling a pleating
ratio. Basically, the ratio of pre-pleated fabric to pleated fabric. To do this, I take
a ten inch strip and run it through my pleater. I use ten inches since the math is easy, but
you can pick any length that you wish. Then I adjust the pleats until I like the spacing.
There isn't really a "right or wrong" way to adjust your pleats, although too tight
will make it hard to pleat and personally, I don't like that look. But it's sewing,
you do you. So once you get your ratio, then you'll
measure what your post pleated fabric need to span. So in my case, I'm doing some pleating
underneath this yoke. I only want pleating in the center 3 ¾ inches under the yoke.
I want some flat fabric on each end to make construction easier.
So here's the math – my established ratio is 4 inches of finished pleated fabric to
the 10 inches of the pre-pleated length. Now I know I want around 3 ¾ inches of finished
pleated fabric, so I'm going to use that to figure out what my pre-pleated length should
be. So I cross multiply and solve for x. So I've
got 4 times x for 4x and 3.75 times 10 for 37.5. Then divide both sides by 4 to solve
for x, so 37.5 divided by 4 is 9 and 3/8 since .375 is 3/8.
Now remember, we've set up x to be the portion of pleated fabric. In my case, I also need
to add in a facing on one side as well as an armhole on the other. Keep these variables
in mind as you approach your own project. Just add in those factors as you need. So
I'm adding on three inches for that facing and two inches for the armhole.
So I've got my 2 inches for the armhole plus the 9 and 3/8 inches for the pleated
section plus 3 inches for the facing for a total of 14 and 3/8 inches.
So that gives you the math portion. Then I pleat up my fabric by running both the left
front side of my dress through the pleater as well as the right front side of my dress
without removing my threads – just one less thing to do.
Then I pull off plenty of extra thread before moving these from my pleater. I pull the thread
so each piece of fabric has enough to work with. Then I cut the threads and move all
those pleats over so I can make room for my facing. I planned for 3 inches to go to the
facing. So I find the nearest pleat to three inches and pull up those threads. Then I should've
tied those treads off so they are secure before I moved onto the armhole, but I just forgot.
You'll see that I go back and tie them off in a little bit.
So I mark my armhole giving the pattern. You can see that I have the yoke pattern right
on top of the skirt pattern that has the armhole attached to it. So I overlap these pattern
pieces at the given seam allowance. I make sure that seam allowance is collinear to the
top of the skirt and the side of the armhole is also flush, and then I pull out the pleats
on the other side of those marks, giving myself some space for seam allowance. And really,
I should've tied that first side off before moving onto this armhole so I don't pull
out any of those threads. So I'm doing that now and then going back to the armhole side.
Then I cut around that armhole. So then I iron that facing over into place
and get my favorite freezerrr paperrrr. Love this stuff. So I bring over the yoke just
to double check my work as I'm blocking. So I line up one side with the yoke and then
tie those pleating threads off so the other side of the skirt is flush with the yoke.
At this point, I am only concerned with getting the length correct. After those threads are
tied off, then I trim them up and evenly distribute the pleats. Then I grab some of this freezer
paper and iron the waxy side down to keep those pleats in place. If you are new to using
freezer paper, I do have a more detailed video going over how you can block using this magical
stuff – seriously, I can't recommend it enough.
Then I put my yoke right sides together with my pleated skirt and sew the two together.
Normally I would trim up the freezer paper so it is flush with my fabric, making a consistent
seam allowance easier to achieve, but I couldn't find a non-sewing pair of scissors and didn't
want to make too much noise – this was around 4 in the morning. But you get the idea…
from there I would continue sewing my entire garment and then do the smocking at the end,
on a finished garment. I hope this video was helpful. If you have
any questions, please leave them in the comments below and I'll do my best to answer them.
As always, I appreciate y'all for watching and I hope to catch ya next time.

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