okay last week I modified a trailer to go snatch up some logs and in this video
I'm gonna be slab ing them up as milling is an entire world all of its own I
learned quite a bit in this past week and I'm gonna try to cram as much of
that information into this video as possible so let's just jump into it
there are two main methods for milling logs a bandsawmill like Matt Carmona's
or a chainsaw mill I'm going with a chainsaw mill for now I'm actually gonna
jump ahead because there are a lot of components of this and I want to show
you the outcome before I get into the details of each one the components are
the chainsaw of course the mill which is a railing system parallel to the
chainsaw bar that guides you for a straight cut on your very first cut you
need a flat reference for the mill to ride along which is what these rails
here are then something I put on mine but is optional is a winch this is
mounted to the mill and then hooks up to the bar that you see here now that you
see what I end up with let me go back to the beginning of putting everything
together tractor supply is now a supplier of Husqvarna equipment and I've
partner with them to use the rancher 460 chainsaw with a 24-inch bar on my mill
note that the chainsaw you buy has specs on the longest bar it can support so if
you want to cut certain diameter logs be sure to buy a saw that can support it I
started off with the rails that will go on top of my logs to give my mill a flat
reference for the very first cut you might have seen people use a ladder for
this application before but I want with rails made by the same company who made
them know I'll be using which is a family-owned and operated company called
Granberg they're called easy rails and do come in a variety of different links
but I went with the 10-foot rails which come in two 5 foot sections and they can
either be used separately or together next I switched out the stock chain that
comes on the chain saw which is a crosscut chain over to a ripping chain
just like any other saw blades the teeth are specifically designed with a certain
task in mind and if you're gonna be going from cross-cutting to slobbing you
need to invest in a ripping chain if you're curious the teeth are filed to a
much steeper angle on a ripping chain because it's a much more aggressive cut
since you're cutting along so many more growth rings lengthwise
after getting the chain on and tightened down I moved on to assembling the mill
that goes around the chainsaw this is the railing system that is parallel to
the bar and it can be raised or lowered to determine the thickness of your slab
and since I have a 24-inch bar I went with the 24-inch mill and just a fun
fact for you an eel or an Berg who started the company actually designed
the first Alaskan chainsaw mill back in the 60s
so anything milling related this company has you can see that the chainsaw now
fits right into the mill and then tightens down on to the bar to hold it
in place like I mentioned earlier and out on that I opted in for is a winch on
the mill this will drastically reduce the amount of work I mainly have to do
to get the saw through the piece of wood and I'll show you how this works in just
a few minutes first I wanted to set all of us equipment aside and quickly build
a log stand so that I don't have to cut all of these logs on the ground since
I've never done this before I wasn't sure what setup would be best so I went
with some two by sixes with a steep angle cut in at both ends then a hole
drilled in the center I flipped them around to be opposite of one another and
then stuck in a bolt with a few washers and nuts I used two nuts so that I could
keep this joint pivoting which will make the stand foldable after repeating to
make three of the same I line them out use a clamp to hold them in the open
position making sure the feet were flat on the floor and then placed another two
by six to tie them all together and to also create a hard stop for them to open
now you can see it can fold up and be stored or transported but then quickly
deployed to be used depending on your length of logs should determine how many
of these X's you include on your stand okay and after all that setup I was
finally ready to get a log on my stand in to start milling go to use the
tractor to snatch onto a log on the trailer and set it into position
now the log doesn't have to be perfectly flat but the next step is easiest if
it's somewhat flat so I first started up my Husqvarna 460 and took off a high
spot
I've never been able to do a drop start trust me nuts
I'll just do what works for me though set it on the ground and use my foot to
stabilize it
but this being the first cut I started by placing my easy rails in place again
these will be the flat reference for my mill to get a straight first cut I'll
end up the crossmember so that the spikes or dogs would all land on the log
and then I hammered them in with a detached I next leveled up the rails and
you don't need to have them leveled along the length along just across the
log I don't know if you can see but there are two leveling screws at each of
one of these cross members to make this happen
then the last thing was to attach the winches anchor point if you is this is
attached to the end of the log so that it can peak up in between the two rails
and you can see here that once you start the saw and get the mill on the rails
the winch cable on the mill goes from the reel to the Anchor Point and then
reattaches back to the mill this allows me to keep my left hand on the throttle
of the saw and my right hand on the winch to advance or back off of the cut
a few things I want to say about knowing one
beware folks because this is highly addictive honestly I want to swab up
everything now to where if you stand still long enough in my shop I'll start
attaching rails to you too this operation can be done alone but it
is kind of a lot and it is so much easier if you have a second hand around
you'll see Brian they're cutting wedges for me and then placing the men as I get
further into the log this is to keep the slab from pinching your bar and binding
and then three I tried moving the mill along without the winch just to see the
difference and I will say that the winch makes such a huge difference in how much
effort is required and 100% recommended it he get into this
now that the log has a flat reference along the top I could just set the mill
directly on top of that previous cut and start the process over again the second
cut took me just under five minutes to make the main components or making that
happen as much like any other cutting tool in the shop having the correct
amount of power and a sharp edge this Husqvarna has no issues chopping through
this oak mesquite or even pecan which are all pretty hardwoods this work does
use up the bar oil though so make sure you're keeping an eye on your tank no I
won't lie I was pretty disappointed at this oak when I got a look inside the
inside was really cracked and honestly not something I was interested in
keeping now I didn't have any more long logs but my very awesome woodworking
neighbor offered me a short pecan and mesquite log that he had so I jumped at
those to try next you can see that instead of cutting the tops of my log
stand down I just shirred up the bottom with some
scraps this is because I'm not yet sure what the average diameter of log I'll be
getting is and I didn't want to cut them too short but note that this is an
alternative to filling up the bottom of the stand something else I did when the
log got smaller was used the lock dogs and my super jaws these are a set of
jaws with blunted teeth specifically designed for grabbing on the logs oh
yeah and a helpful tip I got from Instagram is instead of placing the log
level lengthwise place it downhill gradually so that gravity can help you
whenever you're mowing through gorgeous as far as keeping things sharp I sharpen
my chain after every third pass which might be excessive but I'll learn with
time where that sweet spot is on sharpening in the past I've always used
a file to sharpen the teeth but Granberg actually has this really cool 12 volt
electric sharpener that attaches right to the bar it hooks
up to a truck or car battery so I just used the battery from the log Stockton
trailer to run it but last thing I had a slob up was this crotch piece of pecan
after making the first cut I stuck it in my super jaws to make the remaining cut
and just look how cool this one came out I know the saying goes life is like a
box of chocolates but I think it should be changed too milling is like a box of
chocolates if you honestly don't know what you're gonna get and it's so
exciting the next step in the milling process is to set these slabs aside and
let them dry and just a general roll is to let them dry a year for every inch of
thickness for example a two inch slab two years to dry but for videos sake
let's just say it's been two years these are now dry and I'm ready to use them to
make something to use it I will first need to flatten it and since it's wider
than a jointer Earth the most popular method for flattening a slab is called a
router sled you can make a homemade jig but my friends over at woodpeckers tools
heard I was slobbing and asked me to try out their new slab flattener coming out
later this year you're familiar with woodpeckers and you should already know
that they excel at precision which is exactly what a flattener needs to get
the best results everything needs to be level and stay level to give you a
perfect cut across your entire slab so that you don't have a lot or any post
cleanup work to do this jig has two long rails that I temporarily attached to my
workbench then it also has a sled that sits on to these rails inside this lead
is where a router base is set so that I can slide up and down the link after
taking my time to get everything set up I position my slab and set the depth of
my router bed to start removing material to flatten the slab
with things set up you can see how it works the router base moves along the
sled then the sled moves along the rails allowing you to gradually move over the
sled in order to flatten it I'm using my Triton two-and-a-quarter
since I have my larger three-and-a-quarter over on my router
table then for a bid I'm using a 2 inch flattening bit and also a bit extender
made by infinity tools if you don't have this extender and you just have the bit
in a router it's really common for the bit to run out of throw and not be able
to get down far enough to actually hit your slab and that is a wicked cool tool
if you ask me if you have never flattened a spot before then here are a
few things that I learned from my experience when working with a piece
that has a slight twist in it you first need to shim it up and keep it stable to
flatten it next I set the bit depth according to the highest spot on the
slab so that starts off with removing the high spots this means you aren't
removing material everywhere on the slab on the first pass and the objective is
to keep removing all of the high spots passed by pass and so you're finally
removing material from the entire slab that means that it's all in the same
level in this flat I set my bed to take off about an eighth inch material also
remember that with these larger diameter bits you will want to slow the speed of
your router down once I get the slab down to where I'm removing material from
everywhere evenly I changed the bit depth for a final smoothing pass and
this is to just cut down on some of the marks left behind from the rough cuts
but honestly if you keep your bit sharp you'll be amazed at how perfect the
surface feels at least I was if you were curious about the milling process before
then I hope that you found this video informative I can't believe the amount
of information I learned in just a week and of course now I can wait until
my own inventory of wood that has filled up myself if you're curious about
anything that I used in the video there are links from you down in the
description and don't forget that tractor spot and now sapphire Husqvarna
equipment that's it for this one my next video will be turning my guide slabs
into furniture so stay tuned and I will see you then
that's cool
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